Gilmour’s may be the perfect local restaurant
By The Prodigal Fool, published on 11 April 2009
We’re hesitating to even write this review. You see, a gem like Gilmour’s is the sort of place you want to keep to yourself. The last thing we’d want is for the place to get drunk on its own success, start putting on airs and graces or, worse, be fully booked when we call to book again – which will be soon and often. This is simply a fantastic local restaurant.
Now, when we say that this is a local restaurant, it’s important to put that in context. The neighbourhood in question is SW10 and we’re in a street that also hosts (next door in fact) Aubergine where the Sweary One first came to fame. So, the well-heeled locals (Sarah Ferguson is apparently a regular) have higher expectations than most. But Gilmour’s rises to meet them effortlessly.
The ambiance is smart but completely relaxed; the staff are very slick but completely charming; and the food is simple, comforting but perfectly executed.
The first thing you notice when you walk in is the cosy bar which, unusually for a small London restaurant, was actually being used by customers. A couple of patrons were sitting there enjoying a drink and, a few stools down, the restaurant’s owner, Chistopher Gilmour was keeping a very discrete eye on proceedings. Apart from the occasional movement to greet regulars as they arrived, Mr Gilmour didn’t budge from his perch for the duration of our visit. And he didn’t need to. This place is a very smooth running operation – just like his other restaurant (he sold it some time ago but The Guide remains a big fan): Christopher’s in Covent Garden.
This is not a big dining room and they’ve done their best to maximize the use of the space. The downside is that you’re at risk of being shown to one of two tables that are claustrophobically located up against the side wall. That’s what happened to us but we asked for an alternative which was quickly and happily provided. Not a problem, especially since the Vodka martini that arrived shortly afterwards quickly took our mind off the initial scare of sitting in Siberia. It was near perfect: sharp, tasty and ice cold. And things only got better from there.
The starters we sampled were both excellent but we’re embarrassed to admit we’ve forgotten what they were (we really should start jotting down the occasional note, especially if we’re going to consume as much wine as we invariably do during these outings). The main course, on the other hand, was unforgettable. Pork belly served with curly kale and wonderfully smooth mashed potatoes. Absolutely superb comfort food, brimming with taste and perfectly cooked.
We washed it down with a very good Californian Pinot Noir that we’d selected from a wine list that deserves its own special mention. It’s not long but it is extremely well considered and, for a London restaurant of this calibre, in this neighbourhood, very honestly priced.
Taking the comfort food theme to its ultimate conclusion, we then gorged ourselves on an irreproachable sticky toffee pudding. Truly superb.
Gimour’s is a rare gem of a restaurant. It delivers unpretentious, friendly food and service and when the bill arrives you’ll think it very fair indeed. Highly recommended but please have the decency not to book the place up on nights that The Guide wants to return there – that will be Mondays, Wednesdays and Friday’s. Every week.
Gilmour’s, 9 Park Walk, London SW10, Tel: +44 20 7349 6800
Gilmour’s may be the perfect local restaurant
We’re hesitating to even write this review. You see, a gem like Gilmour’s is the sort of place you want to keep to yourself. The last thing we’d want is for the place to get drunk on its own success, start putting on airs and graces or, worse, be fully booked when we call to [...]
3 Responses to “Gilmour’s may be the perfect local restaurant”
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T,
Thanks for your comments.
I couldn’t say whether or not your post represents a fair account of the inner workings of Gilmour’s – for one very obvious reason: I’ve never worked there.
But I think your comments do raise the very interesting question of how -and if – waiting staff should be ‘tipped’.
As a customer, my habit is to pay the ‘service charge’ as part of the bill – on my credit card – unless a waiter has provided particularly good service; in which case, I’ll make a point of leaving some cash on the table. What happens after that will be heavily dependent on the restaurant and I’m happy not to have to get involved. I’ve always assumed that in restaurants where the management has a fair system of remunerating the staff, the tips – even cash ones – would be shared. In other places, the individual waiter or waitress would – quite rightly – put the cash in their pocket and never mention it to their bosses.
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[...] Thai restaurant, Sukho, in Fulham; phenomenal steaks at Shoreditch’s Hawksmooor; the wonderful Gilmour’s in Chelsea; peerless burgers at Byron on the King’s Road; superior cocktails at both Eight Over [...]
T
27 November 2009
A review from the “inside” —
After finishing our Masters at Edinburgh my boyfriend and I got a job at Gilmour’s to pay the bills (while looking for a proper job in London.) We were honest about the situation and hired on the spot – before the restaurant had opened – for a base salary plus tips. The tips were added to each bill so we couldn’t take home anything each night. After 3 and a half weeks of working at Gilmours, we had a staff meeting in which management told us under their breath that we wouldn’t get the tips at all. The two people that questioned the dishonesty of management were fired. Of course, management had a ton of excuses but it came down to the fact that they lied to get educated, experienced servers working for them to make their opening run smoothly. We actually spoke English fluently and taught the other server how to open a bottle of wine.
Regardless how you feel about tips, you should be angry if service is added to your bill and not given to staff. The 12.5% service charge goes to already-millionaire Christopher Gilmour.
I’ve waitressed since I was 15 in various different establishments and have never seen management treat staff – and customers – lied to so blatantly..
Otherwise, the food is mediocre and overpriced. “Jeff the chef” lacks the creativity and skill to bring strong flavour (and colour) to the dishes
There are many better, fair restaurants in the neighbourhood and I recommend you try those instead.