Jazz hands! Saturday night at Lena
By Patito, published on 17 September 2009
Stepping out of Old Street tube station, having boarded at Earls Court, culture shock set in. Walking down the street, it was immediately obvious that the Guide was both too old and too uptight for this neighbourhood. Effortless cool is what is required. Heading down Great Eastern Street, the Guide tried not to react when a man dressed up as Al Capone ashed all over us at a traffic light, or indeed when a passer-by spat something rather unpleasant at our feet. But as soon as we arrived at Lena, one thing was clear: this was going to be worth it.
A table for 12 was booked downstairs in the jazz bar. Our party had arrived promptly and was sipping cocktails as we walked in. A dry Martini please. “What’s your house gin? – Beefeater.” Ouch. “Can you make it with Bombay in that case, please. – No problem”, said the waiter (adding a knowing wink). When it arrived, it was the smoothest DM this side of Gabriellestraat. Not bad. An hour of cocktail fun and smirting curbside, it was time to take our seats.
Once installed, our host for the night, Nathaniel, shimmied over to the table to introduce himself (waiter by night, dancer by day) and the specials. Glancing over the menu, there was no need for specials – everything sounded extraordinary, with a focus on Southern Italy from Head Chef, Cleto Baldi. Our Italian companions were suitably impressed (so far). Seabass makes a couple of appearances on the menu – with both the ravioli di spigola (served with caper and parsley butter – coming in at £14) and the spigola alla griglia (served with Italian lemon and olive oil – £19) regular best sellers. The filetto di manzo con funghi porcini, pere e parmiggiano (£21) is another favourite.
So, what would our Italian friends opt for? One tagliatelle al finocchio con aragosta e pomodorini (£24 – “‘is good, ‘is good, pero’ manca un po’ di sale”) and a grilled seabass. Undeniable Belgian roots prompted us towards the cozze alla tarantina (£7.50), although we were tempted by the rather scrumptious sounding burrata di andria con pomodorini e pane carasau (£9.50) (“Like the best mozzarella you’ve ever had, but more delicious”, according to Nathaniel).
Our orders placed, Nathaniel teetered off to the kitchen. The band started up. An incredible voice filled the room and Nathaniel reappeared, transformed from waiter to dancer. Pirouetting himself into ecstasy, we were transfixed. As the song came to an end, the room erupted. Not your usual restaurant experience. But then, everything about this night was rather special and surprising. There was only one way to end: the semi-freddo di nocciole e caramello (£5), with an espresso poured over the top. Absolutely divine.
Lena, 66 Great Eastern Street, London EC2A 3JT, tel: +44 20 7739 5714, reception@lenarestaurant.com
Jazz hands! Saturday night at Lena
Stepping out of Old Street tube station, having boarded at Earls Court, culture shock set in. Walking down the street, it was immediately obvious that the Guide was both too old and too uptight for this neighbourhood. Effortless cool is what is required. Heading down Great Eastern Street, the Guide tried not to react when [...]
10 things we’ll miss about London « The Prodigal Guide
7 July 2010
[...] Sometimes nothing does the trick quite like an espresso Martini. From Dean Street Townhouse to Lena, these wonderful coffee boosters have delighted us on many a night out. Think any Parisian barmen [...]