Bond’s drink: Martini at Dukes
By Patito, published on 4 August 2010
We thought we knew all about Martinis. As a founding member of the Dry Martini Club (DMC to its friends) we have spent the last four years researching, making, re-making and tasting Martinis. What more could we learn? As it turns out, quite a lot. And we’re going to share it all with you. Right now.
One place in London is synonymous with Martinis: Dukes Hotel. Centrally located between the grounds of Buckingham Palace and Piccadilly in an area known as St James’s, it is apparently where Ian Fleming came up with the phrase ‘shaken, not stirred’. Dukes has had Italian barstaff since the 1950s and our visit last week was no exception. Alex Boggio, the Assistant Bar Manager from the Isola d’Elba took charge of our most enjoyable two hours at Dukes.
We roped in two rather charming young Europeans to carry out the evening’s research with us. A young Greek regulator and an Irish journalist were our tasting companions. Neither were Martini aficionados,something that was clearly evident from their first drink choices: a Miss Moneypenny (a cointreau, passion fruit and lime drink, that – ok – was served in a Martini glass) and a Strangeways (a cucumber – CUCUMBER! – vodka drink). Aie aie aie!
So when we arrived, we cut straight to the chase and ordered a Vesper Martini from the trolley – because that’s how the proper drinks are served here. The Vesper Martini once again rose to prominence in 2006 when Daniel Craig took over the Bond helm but it also features in the original novel. But what is it?
“A dry martini,” [Bond] said. “One. In a deep champagne goblet.”
“Oui, monsieur.”
“Just a moment. Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?”
The first time we tried the Vesper in 2006 we found it undrinkable but this time around, it was elegant and sharp. The boys agreed (as they sheepishly continued sipping their girlie drinks).
‘So, should it be shaken or stirred?’ asked the Greek regulator, putting his finger on one of the most contested Bond-related issues. ‘Well’, we said, pulling out 12 pages of print outs about the perfect Martini, ‘that depends who you ask’. On the one hand, it is argued that shaking gin ‘bruises’ it – a bad thing, while on the other hand, shaking is supposed to make the drink colder – a good thing. In an episode of The West Wing, President Jed Bartlet disagrees with Mr Bond:
Jed Bartlet: Can I tell you what’s messed up about James Bond?
Charlie Young: Nothing.
Jed Bartlet: Shaken, not stirred, will get you cold water with a dash of gin and dry vermouth. The reason you stir it with a special spoon is so as not to chip the ice. James Bond is ordering a weak Martini and being snooty about it.
And indeed, it seems Alex Boggio would agree. For our second drink, we wanted to compare and contrast a shaken and a stirred dry gin Martini. We called a young waiter over and placed the order. Alex came back within seconds.
‘That’s not nice what you did’. What? we asked. ”e is young, ‘e not know’.
We were confused. ‘We don’ shake ‘ere’, said Alex. But we wanted to try the two, we said. ‘No’. Point blank refusal. ‘We don’ shake ‘ere’.
This was clearly not for discussion. We reverted to what we know best and ordered a dry gin Martini with an olive. Dry, you say? Oh dry is what came back. It was beautifully done but any less than a Martini maniac or alcoholic and you’d struggle with this.
So, what would the boys have? Alex spotted the remnants of the fruit cocktails on the table and diplomatically suggested he should decide for our Martini virgins. They said they wanted one gin and one vodka-based drink. Alex prepared a Martinet for the Greek, and his own invention – the Golden Martini – for the Irishman.
The three of us agreed that the Greek got the Martini jackpot: the Martinet was smooth and full of flavour. The Irishman described his Golden Martini as ‘Wow! Christmas in a glass’. Delicious, decadent and simply perfect. The gold and silver leaf floating on the top were a nice touch. ‘Nobody ‘as done it before’, said Alex.
So, why is Dukes so famous for Martinis, we asked. ‘Ian Fleming came ‘ere all the time’, Alex told us. ‘In fact, that is why ‘e is called James Bond – it is in St James’s and close to Bond Street’. Even if it isn’t true, what a fabulously appealing anecdote.
Listening to these tales of Bond and learning about Martinis from the very accomplished Alex was a real pleasure. Our evening disappeared before we knew it. And so did our credit – six drinks came to £109.69! But was it worth it? You bet! Dukes is unbeatable. Even someone who thought they knew everything there was to know about Martinis learned a thing or two.
Dukes Hotel, St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NY, Tel: +44 20 7491 4840, Email: bookings@dukes.com
Bond’s drink: Martini at Dukes
We thought we knew all about Martinis. As a founding member of the Dry Martini Club (DMC to its friends) we have spent the last four years researching, making, re-making and tasting Martinis. What more could we learn? As it turns out, quite a lot. And we’re going to share it all with you. Right [...]
25 Responses to “Bond’s drink: Martini at Dukes”
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Patito
4 August 2010
Nothing wrong with dry Straight Six! Indeed, I rather enjoyed my drink last week but it does require some training, you have to admit.
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Straight-Six
5 August 2010
Training? TRAINING?! Years and hospital/credit card bills worth, ma tres chere..:)
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Alex may know how to mix a fabulous Martini but he clearly knows nothing about James Bond or Ian Fleming.
Allow me to set our cheeky Italian barman straight:
It’s well documented that Fleming “‘borrowed’ the name of his hero from a book he had lying around Goldeneye as he was writing the first Bond story. He was trying to come up with the plainest, most non-descript name he could think of for agent 007 and he found it on the cover of a book on birds (yes, lovely irony there if you like that sort of thing): James Bond was an ornithologist. He wrote ‘Birds of the West Indies’.
Now I’m going to go one step further in showing off my embarassing knoweldge of Bond. In Die Another Day (Bond’s 20th cinematic outing), there’s a scene when Bond is meeting the sleeper agent in his office in Cuba (the agent eventually gives 007 a gun and his car). As Bond is looking around his office, he very breifly picks up a dusty copy of ‘Birds of the West Indies’. Blink and you’ll miss it.
Die Another Day is often mentioned in ‘worst Bond film’ lists and it’s true that it’s not 007′s finest moment but, if you’re a sad Bond geek like me, it is at least amusingly packed with knowing references to the previous films and books.
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Oh, and fabulous post by the way.
Any post that can combine a mention of Bond, alcohol AND The West Wing is a winner in my book!
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A celebration of 007: Bond Week « The Prodigal Guide
4 August 2010
[...] Wednesday – Bond’s drink: Patito takes you for a trip to Dukes of St James, the spiritual home of Bond’s beloved Martini. Patitio is ever the professional journalist and we think this may be the most thoroughly researched post you’ll ever read. [...]
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Patito
4 August 2010
I prefer Alex’s version!
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Ian Skellern
4 August 2010
An excellent read thank you and I will start saving my centimes for as visit to Dukes on my next trip to London. It my well be Prodigal. Cheers!
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Patito
4 August 2010
I wonder whether Harry’s Bar in Paris will compare at all to Dukes …..
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Straight-Six
5 August 2010
Enjoyed a very dry Martini at Harry’s Bar in Venice and it was superb, sending me half-cocked into the Venice palazzo evening that followed…
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Surely the only thing to order at Harry’s Bar is a Bellini!!?
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Straight-Six
5 August 2010
I had that first. Then I wanted to find out what the real men drank. None of my companions (all male) could follow. It was too pricey for their taste…
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I’m not surprised. If you fart in Harry’s Bar it’s pricey.
Mrs Fool and I had a great meal there. Fresh ingredients, beautifully cooked and served with flair. Mrs Fool declared it to be one of the best Italian meals of her life.
Having said that….when the bill came, I thought I was buying shares in the restaurant.
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Frank T
5 August 2010
Shake vodka, stir gin.
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And what of a Vesper Martini that contains both vodka and gin?
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Patito
5 August 2010
Thanks Frank – is this the theory about vodka refined from potatoes being slightly oily?
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I really must try a Duke’s Martini. They sound just the ticket. I like my martini’s as dry as Bond’s wit and as cold as his killing.
What really won me over was Alex Boggio’s “We don’ shake ‘ere” and, really, that is what makes a good Martini. Having said that, a Vesper should be shaken. After all, that’s how its creator stipulated it, and so that is how it should be made. I’d be interested to know what Duke’s do to theirs. Clearly they stir them, but as Kina Lillet no longer exists, I assume they use Lillet Blanc, which, unfortunately, does not leave the trademark “bitter aftertaste”.
As for the price, around £20 for a beautifully made Martini in such surrounds is not unreasonable. In fact, I’d say it would be expected. And whilst tipping is not a traditionally English gesture, I do hope that, after being so accommodating, Alex was given his just reward.
At any rate, it sounds like you had a very pleasant evening. Thank you for sharing it and your entertaining review.
Dublo.
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Chris
5 October 2010
I make Vespers at home with Lillet Blanc and Gordon’s and Smirnoff – an homage to JB. Not the “best” of anything in that combination, but delicious never the less. I shake them and the resulting dilution seems to work well – as do the residual ice chips. I recall reading something about cocktails needing about 10% water to taste great.
Remember, Jeb Bartlett was a lib weenie that even conservatives were supposed to like. He knew his Bible and went to church, drinks and Bond, etc. But in the end any chance to stick it to conservative values, free marketeers, right vs. wrong, male interest – could not be passed up.
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svatzini
22 November 2010
Just came across this. I agree Dukes rules in the Martini kingdom (in London at least). My take is here:
http://laissezfare.wordpress.com/2009/07/01/dukes-bar-the-martini-that-inspired-ian-fleming/
All the best,
LF
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svatzini
22 November 2010
Oh yeah, sorry, and the High Class Martini Tour – you should join the next one
http://laissezfare.wordpress.com/2010/08/12/the-london-high-class-martini-tour/
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Lord Hackers
30 June 2011
Good old Dukes! That place has ruined me on several occassions! A remarkable place that serves remarkable Martinis. So far, the Lainsborough just doesn’t cut the mustard!
I have my own (stirred obviously!) Martini recipe that I call a ‘Pink Vesper’. Not sure if this has been done before but I find it quite enjoyable:
2 parts gin
1 part vodka
1 part Lillet Blanc
3-5 dashes of bitters
lemon peel to garnishEnjoy! LH
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I’m going to have to try that delicious-sounding recipe. Like right now. Oh, but it’s only 0901! What the hell…
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Straight up
6 July 2011
Last month I went to Duke’s to try the Vesper and for my taste the orange is not quite right. Yes, I know the Lillet has an orange taste hence the orange garnish but I need bitterness not sweet. This is why I prefer the Lanesborough Vesper (if you read article 1 below, it is close to the original recipe and I find the Lanesborough is close to it as well).
1) This is the recipe for the Vesper which I think someone above has suggested their own recipe but I think this would be better as it has the magic ingredient needed quinine powder, which is lacking in the revised Lillet:
http://www.esquire.com/print-this/ESQ1106DRINKS_84
2) The other is of interest for Bond fans and his choice of poison:
http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1858088,00.html
In late July, I will be returning to Duke’s to continue my research and to sample a few other martinis.
P.S. LH perhaps halfing the Lillet Blanc and bitters? Let me know.
Straight UP!
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Lord Hackers
27 July 2011
Straight Up, I believe there are so many variations of a ‘standard’ Martini due to the mixer’s individual taste requirements! Same no doubt will apply to the Pink! I’ll try the half measures and let you know if it still tastes as great. LH
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Straight Up
25 September 2011
Ah, Duke’s… will be returning very soon as inspiration is a guarantee.
Straight-Six
4 August 2010
Sounds divine and fabulous! A great write-up Patito and we will have to hold our next TPG editorial meeting there.
Just one thing: you said “Oh dry is what came back. It was beautifully done but any less than a Martini maniac or alcoholic and you’d struggle with this.”
The Fool and I drink ours this way. Is that bad, mommy?!