Does French Harry know how to make a Martini?
By Patito, published on 20 October 2010
So, one Friday night after work we met up with the friend of a friend (it’s always thet way, isn’t it?) to find out what these Parisians were capable of. It turns out, our evening’s companion knew the neighbourhood well having grown up on rue Cambon around the corner, and was therefore a perfect (but not Prodigal) guide for the evening. We arranged to meet outside Rolex (as you do) and headed to Harry’s. As we approached, the place was unmissable; big neon red signs outside the door and a flavour of ‘Hemingway was here’, we were sceptical to say the least. But when we walked in, relief came in three waves: (i) it was calm and welcoming (ii) people were drinking what looked like real cocktails and (iii) there was plenty of French being spoken. Good.
We ordered two Martinis: a gin for the lady (with olives) and a vodka for the gent. And what did we make of them? Good. Not excellent, but good. The main problem was the olives. Olives play an essential role in the perfect Martini. Any connoisseur will tell you that if you eat the olives, the drink will change. And not in a good way. You want the flavour of the olive to filter through the drink. And when the drink consists of pure gin (practically), you want the olive to have some flavour. Not these ones; they were teeny tiny and rock hard. However, for a gin lover, the Martini was still good.
Despite this, Harry’s is a cool place. Parisians like to enjoy their drinks sitting down as we have discovered, so a venue that transposed in London would be heaving and loud, was calm and spacious. We, un-Paris-like stood at the bar as we enjoyed our drinks and nuts. Speaking of nuts, we’re a little picky here too. Either you serve peanuts, or you go exotic and serve Japanese nibbles, but don’t mix the two, which is what Harry did. Salty peanuts and Japanese crackers make an altogether strange combination when accompanied by the king of the cocktail world. Not to worry. It was time to get something substantial to dilute the gin anyway.
We walked to friend of friend’s favourite sushi place on rue des Petits Champs and despite the fact that he hadn’t set foot here for three years, the chef recognised him instantly and sent over the traditional free salmon sushi. Our sashimi menu was the freshest and best fish we’ve had in Paris so far and washed down with a cold Asahi was the perfect Martini antidote. And at 10EUR each, the meal was a steal.
We finished the evening at Etienne Marcel, a bar on the street of the same name that had been recommended by Reuters. Part of the Freres Costes empire, this venture is in the Montorgueil neighbourhood. We sat outside under the heater (autumn has hit Paris) and ordered a cocktail that was described by our waiter as similar to a Cosmopolitan, but better. Why it was served in a pint glass, we don’t know. It was tasty but not ladylike. The bar was funky inside but had a touch of faded glory and was in need of a little renovation. Our drinking companions were young and French on the whole.
A short walk to metro Reaumur Sebastopol (past the requisite 5 drunken tramps – what on earth is going on in this city?) and headed home. A good Paris night out.
Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou, 75002 Paris, Tel: +33 1 42 61 71 14
Sushi Gran, 41 rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris
Cafe Etienne Marcel, 34 rue Etienne Marcel, 75002 Paris, Tel: +33 1 45 08 01 03
Does French Harry know how to make a Martini?
Week seven in Paris, it was time to check out the Martini situation in this city. Where to start? Harry’s New York Bar of course. A Paris institution, Harry’s was founded in 1911. This is apparently the world’s original Harry’s Bar, ‘birthplace of the Bloody Mary and other legendary cocktails’. So, one Friday night after [...]
5 Responses to “Does French Harry know how to make a Martini?”
-
-
Forest, you’re a fountain of knowledge! I think you need to hook up with Patito for a Martini crawl in Paris…
Thanks for the excellent comment.
-
Patito
24 October 2010
Forest, this is excellent! Thank you for the tips. I’ll definitely have to try these other places out.
I ended up in Harry’s again on Friday and actually their Gin Martinis are growing on me. The grumpy bar staff are too. Did you know one of them has been there 26 years – nothing like a barman who knows his customers and his drinks. And the bar was originally set up by a Dundonian (a place close to my heart!) I can feel another Harry’s post coming on.
I love Paris!
-
-
my pleasure…always happy to help fellow martini lovers find the best ones. And, always happy to meet up for one as well!
I didn’t know that about the guys at Harry’s for 26 years, but it doesn’t surprize me. But true…they are a bit grumpy and that is part of their charm. Looking forward to hearing more about Harry’s!
-
Etienne Marcel is a decent little bar. I spent a couple of boozy afternoons there last year on one of my Parisian jaunts. I’d agree that the decor is a little battered and bruised, but it only adds to the charm. It has the quality of a New York bar in the East Village. They do a decent Bloody Mary.
Cafe Charlot in the Marais is fast becoming “the place to be” and is rather good.
Great review otherwise. Being very picky about my Martinis, I will be sure to give Harry’s a miss next time I’m there.
Forest
22 October 2010
good rundown – i’m in complete agreement with regards to Harry’s. Finding martinis in paris is a subject close to my heart!
For well known stops (like Harry’s) at a reasonable price, you should check le Fumoir – not the best martinis in the world, but at happy hour a perfect price!
I like the Experimental, Prescription & Curio…although (they’ll be better for gin martinis than for vodka ones)
There are some hotel bars that will knock out an excellent one, but you’ll pay top dollar for them – more than I think they are worth (murano, plaza athenee, hemingway) hotel bel ami & L’hotel are nice hotel bars that will make a good one at a more reasonable price.
Good to hear your rundown on the Etienne Marcel bar – it’s been on my list of ones to try for awhile, but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. i guess I won’t rush there (i don’t care so much for drinks in pint glasses…well, unless it’s a pint of beer!)