‘Round the dial with Panerai strap maker Kostas Veni
By The Prodigal Fool, published on 25 November 2010
If watch makers are a strange and mysterious breed – dedicated and almost monk-like in their devotion to their craft – then what the Hell are we supposed to think of strap makers? They’re even more niche, even more obsessed and focused.
Well, never one to shy away from an anthropological challenge, The Prodigal Guide has embarked on an expedition to find out more about this rare species.
Our first discovery was Parisian purveyor of wrist-borne pleasure, ABP. Our next? A man of extraordinary talent and humility, Kostas Veni. We first met him thanks to our friends at Linde Werdelin. They’d invited Kostas, together with a small group of customers and friends, to our last Prodigal Meetup. At first, amidst the excitement of checking out the latest Linde Werdelin models and quaffing the simply excellent wines being served at Notting Hill’s Negozio Classica, we almost mistook him for just another watch fan. But it turned out he was more – much more – than that.
“Oh, you’re wearing a Panerai.” said The Fool, glancing down at Kostas’ wrist “That’s ballsy, or perhaps a little stupid, for a Linde Werdelin get together.”
“Well yes,” replied Kostas meekly “actually, I make straps for them. Would you be interested in seeing them?”
With that, he literally whipped out his entire portfolio: a leather display pouch of his entire, gorgeous, strap collection. Not for the first time, we were left looking silly and rather ill-prepared.
Were we impressed? Oh yes, you could say that. And we’ll be bringing you more of Kostas’ straps in the future. In the meantime, through the medium of our ‘Round The Dial interview, we thought we’d introduce you to our latest anthropological discovery: a genuine, cottage industry strap maker who creates some of the most special straps you’re likely to see.
One o’clock: How long have you been making straps?
First of all, I’d like to say thanks for the opportunity to say a few things about the madness behind the world of Panerai and its straps. Most people who know about Panerai, think that we are leather sniffing weirdoes [Editor’s note: Yep, that about sums it up] but although true there is something else behind it as well.
But back to your first question…I have been making straps since 2006.
Two o’clock: How did you first get into it?
In 2004, searching for a new watch, I discovered Panerai. I saved for two years and in 2006 I got my first Panerai (a 112 model, Base, no seconds dial).
By the time I got it, I’d been a member of the Paneristi community for two years so I knew that buying aftermarket straps is quite common for the brand.
Back then, you could count the number of independent strap makers on the fingers of two hands. Contrast that with today: there are close to 100.
I started collecting straps and at some point I had almost 50 just for one watch.
I am originally from Greece which has a good market for leather and is an importer of Italian hides as well.
During a trip home, I visited a leather shop and was intrigued with the options and the potential for straps. Back then I had no idea about strap making.
So, in the beginning and for a couple of months, I was getting the leather hides from Greece and sending them to a friend in Singapore and he was making me straps for my watch. As you’d expect, the constant back and forth from UK and Singapore was not the easiest thing to do. After having a few parcels go missing, it occurred to me that I could learn to do it myself.
I bought the tools and a book from the US about making leather products and then, like everything in life, it was a matter of practice. The first 10 straps were for the garbage bin; the next 20 were mediocre and were just worn by me for testing or given away to friend. But I am a very patient guy and at some point I started making nice straps that I was mainly trading with other collectors and strap makers.
Three o’clock: Why choose Panerai?
Why Panerai? I am a graphic designer and I know that it is very difficult to make something simple and in the meantime so beautiful that has and will stand the test of time. Also it was in my price range, I loved the crown guard (I am not a Radiomir guy), and finally (and most important) because of the strap options.
Four o’clock: Why is it that Paneristi seem to enjoy changing the straps on their watches more than any other brand?
I guess because of why I chose the brand. Panerai has a very beautiful but at the same time a neutral style as a watch (mostly I’m referring to the historic range that I am interested in).
So by changing a strap it changes the whole look of the watch. You can make it formal wearing it with a croc strap, or rugged wearing it with an Ammo.
Five o’clock: What makes a good strap in your view?
That is a tricky question and I will tell you why. As a customer, before I started making and collecting straps, I had a completely different idea of what made a good strap. I was mostly interested in the ‘looks’ and the colour to match the dial. As a strap maker, I am now focused more on the build quality. For me the perfect strap will be completely handmade and hand stitched but with the detail of a machine made strap. In other words to have a strap in front of you and just have only those few small details that make any handmade product special.
Six o’clock: What’s the most exotic or rare leather you’ve used for a strap? How did you get hold of it and how did the strap turn out?
The most exotic leather I had the opportunity to acquire is a small piece of the Metta Catharina cargo.
In October 1973, a team of divers from Plymouth had discovered the wreck of the brigantine the ‘Frau Metta Catharina’ from Denmark, commissioned in 1782. The wreck is famous for its cargo of Russian reindeer hides. Because they were covered in mud, they have survived for more than 220 years.
I managed to find a leathersmith from Plymouth who had some of the hides and bought enough for two straps. I still have one of those straps and it’s one of my favourites.
Seven o’clock: Are some straps on the market overpriced? In what way?
Yes they are. The worst example is those who make bad straps and ask an outrageous amount of money because if they sell just one, they will be covered.
They are a couple of them but thankfully only just a few, and the market just ignores them. They will eventually get bored and find a new way to make easy money.
In general, pricing of Panerai straps needs a lot of discussion. The original Panerai straps from the 50s sell for 5.000$ and the PAV line was sold originally 4 years ago for 250$ and now they sell for 1500$.
In the after market industry we cannot put everything in one basket because it is divided in many sub categories.
There are the strap makers that make straps in a factory and they basically are only resellers. Those probably never made a strap on their own, they buy their straps cheap and then sell much higher because the market and their name allows them.
Then there are the strap makers who employ others to make their straps (but they’re still handmade) and then by using their name they market and therefore mark-up their product.
Finally, there are those who do the whole process themselves. Some use a sewing machine and others do the full job by hand. I am one of the latter. From start to finish, I use nothing more than two needles, a Stanley knife, and a punch.
Eight o’clock: How should people match a strap to a watch? What makes a good watch/strap combination?
Matching a strap to a watch shouldn’t be so difficult. It’s all down to personal taste and with the plethora of straps out there especially for Panerai you can choose whatever you like, although I do have some suggestions that I always make.
For example in my opinion a black strap will not look good with a brown dial watch or some leather/stitching colour combos may not work.
Nine o’clock: How should owners look after their straps?
They should take care of their straps in the same way as any other leather product: by using leather conditioner from time to time. Unless it is a leather strap specifically made for underwater use, in general, leather does not like water. And if you plan to use it I strongly suggest to use oil grease before and after use.
Handmade straps are much tougher than some factory made ones and I personally wear most of my own straps when I swim and they get character and patina over time, but I take good care of them and I can replace them in the unlikely event they get damaged.
Ten o’clock: What other strap makers do you admire and why? If you couldn’t wear your own straps, whose would you buy?
As I said earlier, before I started making my own straps I was a big strap collector. At some point I had around 80 straps for only two Panerais. That means that until 2008/9, I had a strap from almost every strap maker out there.
I still have many other straps than mine in my collection and wear them as well although I prefer my own because I can fully customise the specifications to my wrist.
There are two strap makers that I admire. The first is Shane Delaurian because his straps are a ‘work of art’ with innovative designs. For me they are not wearable but a pleasure to look at and extremely well made.
The second is Rob Montana. I think that Rob is one of the best strap makers out there because he has an eye for detail and perfection and he makes his own straps completely handmade like me.
Eleven o’clock: Do you have plans to work with any other brands in the future?
Yes, I would like to specialise in making straps for B&R and IWC as well. They are both brands that they have the same philosophy for straps with Panerai.
Still I have made straps for other watches in the past and can always do a special order no matter what.
Twelve o’clock: Where can people buy your straps?
I do not have a website and I do not sell straps for a living at the moment unlike many of the other strap makers out there. I started making straps for myself as a hobby and then for friends and eventually for others because people liked my work.
I prefer doing a handful of straps and pay attention to the detail than accept many orders and do a sloppy work.
I have a personal relationship with almost every customer that I had and I do not want to lose that. I see myself as a bespoke strap maker that I discuss each and every detail of a strap. Sometimes I send more than 10 emails just for one strap to make sure that everything will be perfect.
From time to time I post some new hides and ready made straps on the Paneristi forum.
I also have a photobucket account with the leather hides I have and if someone likes something we can discuss everything through email.
Although I am now seriously considering expanding my ideas and skills in strap making into a business and I am in the early stages of developing this as a full-time occupation in the near future and having as my major priority to keep the very good relationship with each and every client.
‘Round the dial with Panerai strap maker Kostas Veni
If watch makers are a strange and mysterious breed – dedicated and almost monk-like in their devotion to their craft – then what the Hell are we supposed to think of strap makers? They’re even more niche, even more obsessed and focused. Well, never one to shy away from an anthropological challenge, The Prodigal Guide [...]
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17 Responses to “‘Round the dial with Panerai strap maker Kostas Veni”
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J Soltero
25 November 2010
Tracking back to LW, I’m test driving the 3-Timer and am a bit frustrated to find a couple of the strap options too big for my wrist. Too bad aftermarket straps won’t work here, but I’ll definitely need to customize the strap if I end up getting one of these.
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Ahhhhh, don’t jump to conclusions too quickly, Jorge.
Although it’s not as straightforward as with some other brands, you can fit aftermarket straps to the Linde Werdelins. I know that ABP has created straps for them in the past and Kostas himself told me that he was looking at creating straps that would fit Linde’s models. So, plenty of options out there – as long as you’re willing to pay for them of course. Plus ca change…
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J Soltero
25 November 2010
Well then, as ever, glad I checked in with The Guide on this. Thanks for a well done (and timely) interview.
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Thanks for reading, Big Guy.
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Kostas
25 November 2010
In order to make a custom strap for LW, you must have the small plastic pieces that attach it to the case. So if you don’t have those you can only make a new strap by destroying the OEM old one (don’t know how smart that move is for resale value of the watch / unless it doesn’t fit at all). If LW does not want to provide strapmakers with those parts, making aftermarket straps will be impossible.
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I would have thought the guys at LW would be keen to collaborate, no? It seems to make sense for all involved.
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Piers Berry
25 November 2010
Great interview. I’ve bought a number of straps from Kostas in my time and they’re really well made and have a great ‘vintage’ feel about them. I’m really pleased he’s working with LW on producing straps for them and would love to see some of his new creations.
A great guy… and Kostas – if you’re reading this and are interested in doing some B&R straps…give me a shout! Piers
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Thanks Piers.
A Kostas strap (we need to get him a brand name, by the way) on a Bell & Ross vintage series model: now that I’d like to see.
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Kostas
7 February 2011
And your wishes came true:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p78/Veni12/Bell%20and%20Ross/P1050075.jpg
Photos on a watch later
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Kostas
25 November 2010
Thanks guys for the kind words.. I really enjoyed the interview and gave me the opportunity to say a few things about my passion…
@Piers: I ll send you an email this weekend -
Sinan
6 February 2011
Hi Kostas, I am looking for an olive green Panerai strap. It is for a Pam 00088. I don’t have much knowledge on if the Panerai straps fit for all its 44mm watches. Below you will find a link showing a picture of Glashutte Original Senator Navigator Automatik (Rimowa limited edition) in such a beautiful olive green strap. If you ever come by such a color, I would very much like to buy a strap. How can I contact you, what is your e-mail? Thanks for your time.
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Sinan – I’ve forwarded your comment to Kostas via email. I trust that he’ll be in touch with you soon.
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Kostas
7 February 2011
Hello Sinan.. yes i do have different olive green hides.. Please send me an email to:
Thanks
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Everett
24 April 2011
Hi Kostas, please email me. I’d like to buy two k99 straps in different colours please. I’m in Toronto, Canada.
Thanks
Everett
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Ivan Y
30 November 2010
Thanks for the article! When I get a new watch, I’ll have to hunt down a Metta Catharina Russian reindeer hides for a strap — seems pretty appropriate for a Russian person
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10 February 2011
[...] Editor’s note – We enjoyed interviewing him so much – and the response from readers was so positive when we did – that we’ve [...]
Straight-Six
25 November 2010
Kostas is not only a lovely guy but a very talented strap maker to boot. What he showed us during the LW meet was enough to convince me that you can be tempted to buy a watch simply because of the straps it gives you access to.
Best of luck, Kostas!