Smooth sands of time: the Panerai PAM 386
By Straight-Six, published on 28 January 2011
While the debate rages on between the nerds of the modern timepiece dorm and their enemies across the road in the elegantly aged vintage facility, many of us have simply chosen to be a friend to both camps in an uncharacteristic move that displays taste and open-mindedness. And almost always results in us being stone-cold broke.
While The Prodigal Fool’s collection includes vintage pieces like the Omega Speedmaster and Breitling 806, this has done nothing to slow down his zest and passion for modern timepieces, like a Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Grande Reserve and several modern Rolexes. On the other hand, Straight-Six went completely off the deep end and traded five superb modern timepieces (Rolex/JLC) for 3 vintage Rolexes. And a fistful of euros.
But we’ve both longed for timepieces that can deliver the benefits and advances inherent in modern watch-making with all of the seductive appeal of a well-patinaed timepiece. Bell & Ross were the first to do this successfully in our eyes, with their Vintage Heritage series which we devoured at Salon QP and our trip to Antwerp’s finest watch retailer, Slaets. The Vintage BR 126 Heritage is a delightful combination of a domed sapphire crystal (got you protected there, sir!), egg-yolk coloured luminescent material on the dial and hands and a dark case, the combination superbly completed by the sand-coloured strap. And all this for below €3,000. Not bad at all.
Turns out there’s better.
We’ll be straight about this: Panerai has been a polarizing brand here at Prodigal Towers. There have been arguments, sharp words exchanged and shot glasses pulled from their bandoliers over whether this is a brand that makes anything we would actually want to buy, despite the bonafide heritage and in spite of the City Boy syndrome that has infected their offerings.
In fact, both Straight-Six and the Fool had originally agreed to buy matching base Luminors to celebrate their little jaunt across the USA. But, uh, ahem, unexpected financial challenges killed that noble idea outright. And so it was that the Fool last year ordered and received a polished Luminor Marina. Which Straight-Six proceeded to mercilessly attack and ridicule in equal measure. More shot glass were pulled and thrown.
Well, we’re hear to say that the unveiling of the Panerai PAM00386 at SIHH just ended the arguing and bitch-slapping. With its composite case (and a reasonable – for Panerai – 44mm diameter), warm luminescent colouring and killer sand-grey dial, this is a watch that delivers all of the coherency and time-swept looks of a fab vintage piece with none of the headaches or drawbacks. And the aged leather strap deserves to be placed on a pedestal, so brilliantly executed is it.
Makes you wonder whether Panerai’s heritage really was in the murky ocean with a bunch of Italian blokes trying to stick mines on ships in between drinking and whoring. Or whether it should have been part of the far more illustrious and successful Afrika Korps instead.
Truly, the PAM 00386 has been kissed by the desert winds and rubbed smooth with the sands of time. We give it our blessings too.
Smooth sands of time: the Panerai PAM 386
While the debate rages on between the nerds of the modern timepiece dorm and their enemies across the road in the elegantly aged vintage facility, many of us have simply chosen to be a friend to both camps in an uncharacteristic move that displays taste and open-mindedness. And almost always results in us being stone-cold [...]
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5 Responses to “Smooth sands of time: the Panerai PAM 386”
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Straight-Six
28 January 2011
I’m poured and loaded, Fool. You just need to say…when!
So, you’re saying you don’t like any of the more refined elements of the watch, preferring the usual man-handled Panerai approach? Well, you’re a big fella after all, so maybe I shouldn’t have expected anything remotely sophisticated from you.
Oh, and I agree the 372 is a tasty morsel too, but doesn’t have warmth and charisma of the 386. Jesus! Is this how typical Paneristi conversations usually go? A three digit show-down and may the best model number geek win?!
Chin, chin!
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Ivan Y
29 January 2011
386 isn’t the worst of the new models and I certainly applaud Panerai for using ceramic, but I’d prefer a regular-looking base/date-free model in ceramic.
FWIW, 372 is probably going to be the most in-demand model. Looks like everyone is loving it, including Paneristi who normally prefer Radiomir. Heck, it’s even got plexi instead of sapphire for added vintage-ness just like JLC’s reissues *eye roll*
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The Watch From The Expendables: Panerai Luminor 1950- Watch Sell « Raymond Lee Jewelers Blog
4 April 2011
[...] Smooth sands of time: the Panerai PAM 386 (theprodigalguide.com) [...]
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Roy
2 March 2012
Hey guys I know its aold article but:
Seems the 386 has production issues and might not be released at all!!
You hear anything about that?Ivan Y: I hear you !! Check out the PAM 375
The Prodigal Fool
28 January 2011
Pull some shot glasses out of your bandolier little boy, turns out I’m not sure that I agree. It’s the finish on the case, the thin hands and the date that I don’t like.
The PAM from SIHH that has me excited is the PAM372. Look out for a post from me on that very topic soon. Very soon…