What can we tell you about Scott’s - the recently revived Mayfair stalwart - that you haven’t already read elsewhere? Not a lot; except to confirm that everything you’ve heard is true: this place exudes the sort of effortless class that have made its stable-mates, The Ivy and Le Caprice, such firm favourites. Gorgeous, glamorous interior; friendly, unassuming service, and phenomenally good simple dished served with panache.

Before popping in for Sunday lunch recently, The Guide had heard that more than £3m had been spent on the interiors. We can believe it. They ooze glamour. The first thing you notice as you walk into the wood-panelled main dining room is the centrepiece fish bar, featuring a huge shell-fish display, literally piled high. If you’re feeling casual or dining alone, the bar is a great vantage point from which to sit, enjoy a meal, and soak in the buzz of the rest of the room. But we made our way to one of the cosy and comfortable leather banquettes that surround the central bar, sat down and admired the twinkly mirrors and impressive - and suitably expensive-looking - piece of art on the walls.

The menu is wonderful. A homely, fish-heavy selection that is apparently overseen by ex-Caprice chef Kevin Gratton. On our visit, The Guide tried two simple starters, both delicious: smoked salmon and a truffle risotto. We then sampled their grilled skate wing (the best we’ve had) with buttered vegetables and their battered haddock with mushy peas. Superb. We finished with the most decadent and English of desserts: sticky toffee pudding for two - with individual jugs of custard. It was wonderful.

It’s also worth saying a word about the service. The staff at Scott’s are something special. They have the uncanny ability to be very friendly, very helpful, without ever being over bearing. They reminded us of similarly low-key yet wonderfully elegant operations like Le Caprice and The Ivy: everyone gets treated like a star, whether you are one or not.

“And the prices?” we hear you cry. Well Prodigal dining like this doesn’t come cheap. But, trust us, it is money very well spent.

Scott’s, 20 Mount Street, London W1K 2HE, Tel: +44 20 7495  7309